摘要: |
近几十年来,许多沿海国家都开展了大规模的海岸带调查工作,并对海岸带的泥沙运动和地貌演变的某些规律进行了深人研究。但是,对于有潮海滩不同地貌部位上的泥沙运动特征及其控制因素,以及不同地貌部位上,反映泥沙群体运动结果的堆积体运动规律等的现场调查,至今报道不多。实际上,有潮海滩并非单调一致,海滩不同地貌部位上的泥沙运动规律和地貌发育规律,都有极大的、甚至本质上的差异。研究这些差异性,对于我们深入了解海岸带泥沙运动和地貌演变的规律,是有所裨益的。
白沙口位于山东半岛南岸,五垒岛湾之西(见图1) ,湾口朝南,面对黄海。湾内堆积地貌发育。一条巨大的湾口沙咀,自常家庄南岬角向西延伸,逼近海阳所南部的角滩。沙咀的北面为泻湖,白沙滩河注入其中。所谓白沙口,实指泻湖的出口,也为一潮汐通道。由于陆源物质长期倾泻入海,出口处岸线呈扇形向海突出,形成白沙口潮汐三角洲。退潮后,三角洲上一片白沙,沙咀、沙洲等堆积地貌非常发育。它们在海浪、潮流,和河流径流等各种动力因素的交互作用下,活动性很强,其位置变化无常,给航运和水工建筑等带来许多困难。1971-1974年,中国科学院海洋研究所和山东省水文总站协作,在本区进行了系统调查,曾写了专门调查报告。本文试图根据其中的部分现场观测资料,对本区海岸带泥沙运动和地貌演变的一般特征、差异性,及其与动力因素之间的关系等问题进行初步探讨。 |
关键词: 白沙口 泥沙运动 地貌演变 |
DOI: |
分类号: |
基金项目:中国科学院海洋研究所调查研究报告第513号 |
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COASTAL SAND MOVEMENT AND GEOMORPHOLOGICAL EVOLUTION IN THE BAISHAKOU |
Li Fan
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Institute of Oceanology, Academia Sinica
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Abstract: |
Coastal sand movement and geomorphological evolution in the Baishakou had been investigated in 1971-1974. Observation indicated that the relationship are different among direction of the wave and of sand movement and transport of the bar in the different zone of the beach. Directions of sand movement and transport of the bar depend on characteristic of the angle of the wave crest with the shore line, but it corresponds generally to direction of wave in other zone below the high tidal line. If condition of wave were identical, intensity of sand movement is different in the different zone of the submarine slope, therefore it may be divided into several zones of sand movement.
Main factors affecting variation of slope of the beach are size of the sand which constitutes beach. Variations. of size of sand are affected by wave. Slope of the beach variates always periodically with variation of the wave, which we called "cycle of slope of the beach". |
Key words: sand movement geomorphological evolution Baishakou |