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风浪频谱中的特征量
侯一筠, 王涛
中国科学院海洋研究所 青岛 26607l
摘要:
在三参量风浪频谱的基础上对谱参量进行深入地研究,给出了谱参量与风场要素、波场要素的关系,提供了依据风场要素、波场要素及实测波浪资料计算谱参量的方法。从而可以依据上述因素直接计算出三参量风浪频谱。此外还根据谱宽度的变化,描述了风浪频谱的成长方式,解释了传统的波陡、波龄关系中经验常数的不同选取所代表的物理背景。
关键词:  风浪频谱  谱参量  谱宽度
DOI：
分类号:
基金项目:中国科学院海洋研究所调查研究报告第2154号
CHARACTERISTIC PARAMETERS OF THE WIND WAVE SPECTRUM
Hou Yijun, Wang Tao
Institute of Oceanology, Academia Sinica, Qingdao 266071
Abstract:
On the basis of the proposed spectrum with three parameters, a further study was made on the relationship between spectrum parameters and wind parameters, spectrum parameters and wave parameters. The significance of this study is that: l) the theory of parameterizing wind wave spectrum further satisfactorily established, 2) the variation in wind wave feature is described, 3) the characteristic feature of wind waves is obtained by calculating from wind wave spectrum, and 4) the developmental changes in wind waves based on in situ observation data.

The traditional relationship between wave steepness (δ) and wave age (β) depends upon the spectrum width (B) in developing states of the wind wave. Some kinds of wind wave spectral are proposed with three parameters. A new conclusion is derived that developing mode of the spectrum changes as its width varies.
Key words:  Wind wave spectrum, Spectrum parameters, Spectrum width
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