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关于Bretschneider风浪频谱的注记
孙孚1, 丁平兴2
1.青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室 青岛 266003;2.华东师范大学河口海岸研究所 上海 200062
摘要:
依据作者提出的海没能量外观分布,即外频谱的概念,重新推导了Bretschneider风浪谱,极大地简化了Bretschneider原来的推演过程,并对谱的系数予以订正,将订正后的Bretschneider谱与Pierson和Moscowitz谱进行了比较,结果表明,两种风浪频谱在数学表述上是完全等价的。
关键词:  海浪能量的外观分布  外频谱  海浪频谱  内频谱
DOI:
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基金项目:国家自然科学基金资助,49276248号
A NOTE ON BRETSCHNEIDER SPECTRUM
Sun Fu1, Ding Pingxing2
1.Laboratory oj Physical Oceanogfaphy, Ocean Unirersity of Qingdao, Qingdao 266003;2.Institute oj Estuarine and Coastal Research, East China Normal Unirersity, Shanghai 200062
Abstract:
Based upon the apparent energy distribution of sea waves (which is a concept proposed priviously by the authors), the Bretschneider spectrum is rederived in extremely simplified manner and its coefficient is revised through some theoretical consideration. The rededuced spectrum being mathematically equivalent to the spectrum given by Pierson and Moscowitz indicates that the difference in basic idea between the above two spectra has not led to any discrepacy in their expressions, so that the utilization of the apparent energy distribution is an effective way to obtain the spectrum of wind waves which is very difficult or even impossible to determine based on current knowledge of wind wave theory.
Key words:  Apparent energy distribution of sea waves, Apparent frequency spectrum, Frequency spectrum of sea, Waves inner frequency
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