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风浪超射现象的研究 Ⅰ.实验分析
文凡
青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室青岛266003

摘要:

对风浪超射现象进行实验研究,由于峰频率谱值不易精确确定,因此通过谱分析不易获得精确的风浪超射曲线。在风浪槽中4个风区处观测随风时成长风浪,以子波变换分析风浪资料。结果表明,风浪高频组成波在成长中发生能量超射,与Sutherland等的结果相比,该能量超射幅度更大。

关键词: 超射子波变换

DOI：10.11693/hyhz200005015015

分类号:

基金项目:国家自然科学基金项目，49776285号

A STUDY ON OVERSHOOT PHENOMENA IN WIND-GENERATED WAVES I. EXPERIMENTAL ANYLYSIS

WEN Fan

Laboratory of Physical Oceanography, Ocean University of Qingdao, Qingdao, 266003

Abstract:

A study is made on the overshoot phenomena in wind-generated waves. The experiment was made in the wind-wave channel in the Laboratory of Physical Oceanography in Ocean University of Qingdao. The surface displacements of time-growing waves were measured at four fetches in the channel and analyzed using wavelet transform. The results were compared with those of Sutherland. It was found that the high frequency wave components experience strong energy overshoot in the evolution. The energy of high frequency waves decreases greatly after overshoot.

Key words: Overshoot, Wavelet transform

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